Archive for September, 2007
September 26th, 2007 -- Posted in South Africa |
We are at Dot and David’s place now in Joburg! Dot and David are Morag’s uncle and aunt, and they have offered us a place to stay in their home until we leave for Mumbai on Saturday. What a nice treat to have a beautiful home cooked meal tonight, and also very good to see Morag’s Grandmother for dinner. It is neat to be back in this house, as this is the house that Morag’s parents lived in when they had moved back to South Africa (also where we spent a memorable Christmas in 1999!). Dot has gone out of her way to make sure we feel welcome and we really appreciate it!
We have just gotten back to Joburg from Road Trip II. After arriving from Cape Town we rented wheels and headed to a hostel for the night. We got lost as the road we were looking for was closed for construction. We ended up in a township called Tembisa and after a few stressful moments and a few helpful people were back on the right path. We had to be at the Indian Embassy first thing in the morning so that we could apply for visas. After the Embassy we headed for Nelspruit for the next four nights. Not a lot happens in Nelspruit, but it is a good base for other excursions that we were taking. From Nelspruit we spent our first day driving around Kruger Park (8 hot hours of driving and saw a tiny fraction of the huge park - and few animals, being so dry in the south part of the park). The next day was spent driving around the Blyde River Canyon. It is the third largest canyon in the world and has some amazing view points as well as areas to hike around where the water and wind have created huge holes in the sandstone (Bourkes Luck Potholes). We also visited small towns from the gold rush days including Sabie and Pilgrims Rest. Around Sabie is the worlds largest planted forest - tree farms as far as the eye can see. We saw several smokey areas that later in the day became large fires, very sad. Sunday was a day of rest - did some laundry, went to an internet cafe, took a break from driving. Nelspruit was very hot and we didn;t feel like doing much of anything. From Nelspruit we drove to Pretoria for a night, spent a day in Sun City at the water park and then back to Joburg. Sun City was disappointing as it was very expensive, and we unknowingly went on Spring Break. Hundreds of kids and us, on a day sponsored by Vodacom and Nestle (how they have anything to do with one another is beyond me). The Vodacom logo could not have been more prominent, and the “entertainment” included a singing contest where kids had to make up a song including the words “Smarties”, “Nestle”, and “Vodacom”, and then sing it over the loudspeakers. ANNOYING!!!
We got back to Joburg and had to be at the Indian Embassy this morning at 9 to pay for our visas, then go back to collect them at 2:00. What a process. Happily, we have our visas and can go on to India. We spent the time between Embassy visits at the Apartheid Museum and Constitution Hill. Constitution Hill was formerly a series of prison buildings and now houses the Constitutional Court as well as the remains of the prisons. We took a tour and learned a lot. Political prisoners, criminals, blacks, whites, “coloureds”, men women and even some of their babies were housed here. Many were sent to the prison for not having their passes on the street (during the apartheid era, blacks had to carry identity papers to prove that they belonged in certain areas, etc.) and the conditions were horrible. It is set up now as a memorial to the horrors of apartheid and the tour ends with a visit to the Constitutional Court which is a new building, much of it built with the bricks taken from the demolished prison buildings. The Apartheid Museum was one of the best museums that we have been to on our trip. We were given passes when we paid and told what doors we could enter through - White/European and Non-White. The museum was a walk through history from the earliest evidence of life in Africa, through to pre-black resistance, on to black resistance / struggles, to the events that brought about an end to Apartheid and finally to the reactions of South Africans to the first black government. It was eye opening to say the least, and really gave me a lot to think about.
South Africa feels very different from my last visit. It is likely a combination of real change happening from 1999 to now, and me being a little older and more aware of the history. I don’t feel as aware of my skin colour as I remember feeling, I see way more black people driving fancy cars (lots and lots of them actually), and interact with way more black and coloured people in stores, restaurants, shops, etc. I try to imagine how they could have gone from then to now and beyond without the turmoil, bloodshed and total discomfort but I guess it couldn’t have happened any other way. There are so many contrasts here… it is definitely a country that challenges your preconceptions and makes you think.
Anyohw, sorry for the long post. Its been a while and wanted to get in a post before we head to India.
We are going to be uploading some photos shortly.
Bye for now
Paula
September 16th, 2007 -- Posted in South Africa |
Greetings from Knysna, SA. We have been on the road in our rental for about 6 days now doing our Western South Africa tour. Our route has been (roughly) Cape Town to the wine regions of Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschoek, then on to the West Coast National Park and Cederberg area (Clanwilliam, Citrusdal), through the Ceres valley, then to Montagu, Mossel Bay and now Knysna (both on the Garden Route). Tomorrow we start heading back to Cape Town and will head to Joburg and area on Wednesday (by air).
We’ve really enjoyed seeing more of South Africa. It is a great change to have our own wheels and go where we like, when we like. This is a gorgeous country with perfect roads. The scenery has been spectacular. It is wild flower season and they are everywhere along the sides of the roads. We have been big fans of the mountain passes and have driven out of our way several times to go over some amazing passes. We did the Swartberg Pass a couple of days ago, and couldn’t believe how high (1600 metres) and long (45km in total) the road was. What an awesome view of the farmlands, mountains, and rolling hills. We have been staying at some beautiful hostels - compared to other hostels we have been at, these are more like boutique hotels on a budget. We have also been better at eating our breakfasts at the hostel (ProNutro for me - sorry Morag, and Muesli and yogurt for Chris - and no, I didn’t say Soygurt!), and taking lunch with us. While not overly exciting, it is saving us some money and that is a good thing. We are also becoming pros at tasty, cheap and nutritious meals for the dinners that we eat in. Aside from the self catering, we have had some great meals and tasty South African fare. For dinner one night, I had boerewors and Chris had a mixed plate of skewers - springbok, wildebeast and kudu. Never thought that I would see the day when Chris ordered a “Meat Platter”! We’ve also been snacking on biltong (South African jerky), and had koeksisters for dessert last night.
We spent a couple of days in Stellenbosch and did an organized day tour of the wine region. On the tour we had four stops at wineries with 5 - 6 tastings at each, in addition to a glass of wine with lunch. Add a bottle of wine back at the hostel and it was a boozy day. The area is gorgeous and Franschoek is known as the gastronomic capital of South Africa, boasting several of the country’s best chefs and restaurants. We had lunch at a great place with some of the best pizza ever. We also visited Fairview Winery for a cheese and wine tasting. They are the people who produce “Goats Do Roam” wine, which we’ve had at home.
Today we went to Monkey Land and Knysna Elephant Park. Yes, Monkey Land does sound a bit touristy, but it was really cool! They have 200 species of primate, all that have been either rescued from private owners or zoos. They are trying to teach them to be wild again, though none will ever be truly wild. The monkeys come from all over the world and are used to people - while they don’t want you touching the animals, you can get super close to them. The Elephant Park was awesome. We were up close to about 6 or 7 elephants, all orphans (except for the babies that have been born in the park. We fed them apples and veggies - it was so cool to be so close to such a huge amazing animal!!
Anyhow, just trying to post some pictures as well, so hopefully there will be some new stuff there soon. Hoping that all is well at home.
xoxo
Paula
September 5th, 2007 -- Posted in South Africa |
We’ve been here two nights and it feels like we just arrived. Cape Town feels more like home than anywhere we have been so far. A stunningly beautiful city and I suspect it will get even better once we get exploring outside of the city. Table Mountain is a spectacular backdrop to the city. It is pretty cold here, and it rains almost every day it seems but is mixed with Sunshine. We are staying in Cape Town until Sunday when we start exploring the Western Cape using a hired car. Friday we are off to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was imprisioned. Saturday night we are going to see the Soweto Gospel Choir. This afternoon after the rain stops we are heading to the District Six Museum. Tomorrow, expecting sun we are going to hike Table Mountain and perhaps have some sundowners on Signal Hill. Lots going on, but we are enjoying a relaxed place. We have a great little hostel room with a great kitchen. Really nice (and cheap!) to be making our own food again.
More in days to come for sure. Crazy plug type here so we need to find an adapter to charge the camera batteries so we can get snappin.
Yesterday we booked our flight to Mumbai, India for September 29th. I think we are both really excited and a little scared about that one!
Yesterday was also the 6 month point of our trip since we left Vancouver. 1/2 over? Some days it seems like we just left, some days it seems like we don’t even know where home is anymore. Lots of talk about where we will live when we return. Vancouver, Toronto, Halifax, Cape Town, Duncan, its all over the place! Haha.]
I think we are still trying to piece together feelings and thoughts about Tanzania. Last night we were at a restaurant eating (approx 35 dollars). It’s hard to justify that when you know how far that money would go to those in poverty. People we now call our friends. I think this will change our outlook on how we waste money sometimes. Hopefully.
Take care everyone. Still having a blast!
September 5th, 2007 -- Posted in Zambia |
It all started out so well. We left Moshi for the hour drive to Kilimanjaro airport at 9am, got on the plane and arrived in Dar-Es-Salaam on time (11am). Then it started getting not so good. Our flight from Dar, Tanzania to Johannesburg was delayed ‘2 and 1/2 hours’. This turned into 6 hours by the time the engineers fixed whatever was wrong with one of Zambian Airways 4 planes, flew the plane from Lusaka, Zambia to pick us up in Dar. So we got on the plane around 8pm. The plane flew to Lusaka where it was supposed to stop on the way to Jburg. When we arrived (midnight), we were told the plane was not going to Jburg tonight. We have to go thru Zambia immigration and they want us to purchase a $50USD visa for a 6 hour stay. We refused and after a whole bunch of some African language being spoken between the airline girls and the immigration guy (I think they were brother and sister), the airline purchased our visas. Next we are in the parking lot and they are trying to figure out how to get us to the hotel they are putting us in. Eventually we end up in the staff van with all the other Zambian airways workers and two very ass-like eastern Europeans who were too cheap to get a taxi into town. One of them had a shovel. Next thing we are driving at very high speeds through the tiny dirt roads dropping off staff members at their houses. Lots of Bemba being spoken, or what I think is Bemba (popular language in Zambia). We get to our hotel shortly after 1am, i bum a few bottles of water off the receptionist and tip the nice guy who carried our bags with the last of our Tanzanian shillings as we had no Zambian currency to speak of. A few hours go by and next thing it is 5:40AM and the same driver is outside to pick us up (was supposed to get us at 6:30). We rush off to the airport and struggle to get them to remember who we were and get us on the plane in time for Jburg. Amazingly it works and we get on the plane! After a beef pastrami sandwich for breakfast and some sleep we finally arrive in Jburg at 12:50. Short break there and back on a plane for Cape Town. After all was said and done we arrived at the very super Cape Town Backpackers Hostel at around 4pm. It’s cold here.
September 1st, 2007 -- Posted in Tanzania |
First of all, I wanted to say a BIG thank you to Jo and Damian and Henry VIII Pub in Etobicoke!!! They volunteered to raise some money and send it here for a good cause. With the money that they raised, Kilimehewa school is going to get their first classroom set of textbooks for at least two subjects (subjects to be determined). The school will be having a one year anniversary party toward the middle of September and the books will be “unveiled” at the event. The students are going to freak out!!!! It will be great for them to have text books. THANKS GUYS!!!! I have been assured that you will receive a photo once the kids have the books in hand!
Yesterday was a happy and sad day. It was our last days of placement. My last day actually started on Thursday with a Kilimehewa community meeting. The village chairman had a short speech prepared that was really sweet, and the ladies gave me a beaded bracelet and ring before singing and dancing. It was really sweet. Another volunteer, Helen was also saying good bye to Kilimehewa after a three week placement with the Womens Group. They had us both up dancing with them. We had the Ladies for tutoring in the afternoon and it was really sad to say goodbye. One of my favorites, Lucy, started bawling… it was such an awkward moment!!! She started Teodora, who started Mama Hediya… it was quite the moment! Really unexpected, and so damn awkward that all I could do was giggle uncomfortably and pat them on the back saying “pole” - “sorry”. Mama Lucy gave me a beaded necklace and bracelet that she made and also a picture that she drew of her and I. Mama Tina made me a hot plate out of rolled up banana leaves and tied with kanga fabric. Not sure how that is going to travel as it is really fresh and damp… I’ll have to tie it to the outside of my bag!
On Friday I planned a fun day so we played “Jeopardy”, ate chocolate, and took some photos in each class. The classes had drawn pictures and wrote letters to me, which was awesome. They came up one by one and gave me their pictures and their hugs. Saying thank you and goodbye to them was tough. Managed to get through it ok with just a few tears, no waterworks. A couple of the kids were really sad too, but for the most part the chocolate and the camera was so appealing that they forgot about me! 
I feel that being a part of this community has changed me, but I’m not exactly sure how yet. I think that in returning to travelling and eventually in returning home those changes will become more obvious. It has given me a lot to think about in terms of the way that I want to live my life, the way that Chris and I will live our lives together, the things that I value, how to make changes at home and far away. It has been such a positive experience and I feel really fortunate to have been here and met the people that I have met. I won’t forget a moment, and in my heart I know that I’ll be back one day. I encourage anyone who is considering doing volunteering whether local or international to DO IT!!!!
Hoping that the power and internet will be operational tonight at the home base (the power has been out all day today and the internet has been painfully slow or non existent for 3 days)
so we can upload the rest of our volunteering pictures before moving on. Stay tuned for photos!!
On our way to South Africa tomorrow!! Can’t wait to get there now that the goodbyes are done!!
Anyhow, while having a great time here, I continue to be very homesick and miss everyone badly. Hope that all is well, and hope to hear from some of you soon.
xoxox
Paula